Climb the Iconic Matterhorn With Epic Europe Guides in Zermatt
151 years ago, the iconic Matterhorn (4478m) was summited for the first time by Englishman Edward Whymper and his team. On 14 July 1865, Whymper’s 7-man team completed the first ascent of the Matterhorn via the Hörnligrat ridge and the north face. Whymper was the first to reach the summit, followed by the mountain guide Michel Croz (from Chamonix), the Reverend Charles Hudson, Lord Francis Douglas, Douglas Robert Hadow (all from England) and the Zermatt mountain guides Peter Taugwalder senior and Peter Taugwalder junior.
This summer, Epic Europe celebrates this impressive feat with a special itinerary designed to make you feel like Whymper yourself, with modern-day gear and comforts, of course. Custom trips for private groups and individuals, tailored to meet your abilities and strengths, achieving your own summit safely.
Day 1: Arrival – VIP transfer to Zermatt, check in at the Hotel Monte Rosa 4*+ Meet with your Epic Europe UIAGM guide to discuss the week’s plan, and review gear.
Day 2 - 4: Training and acclimatization climbs followed by lunches at some of our favorite on-mountain restaurants.
- Riffelhorn 2928 m: Various rock climbing routes of different levels of difficulty. Ideal climbing preparation for the Matterhorn ascent.
- Half-traverse of the Breithorn 4164m, or Pollux 4091m: Training climbs for hiking and climbing with crampons. Ideal for proper altitude acclimatization.
Day 5: Scenic heli tour – review gear and climb to the Hörnlihütte for overnight before the Matterhorn ascent, cable car to Schwarzsee and an easy 2-hour walk to the hut. Dinner & overnight Hörnlihütte.
Day 6: The ascent of the Matterhorn. Breakfast at 4:00am, and just before dawn, commence the procession up the Hörnligrat ridge. The ascent takes approx. 4-5 hours, and the descent requires about the same amount of time. The route is mostly rock, and entails scrambling and climbing interspersed with some fixed ropes on difficult sections to the Solvay Hut. Once on the ridge, you will climb on fixed ropes and mixed terrain from the north-facing side to the shoulder up to the summit. The descent follows the same route down, with the goal of descending in time to get the last lift down from Schwarzsee to Zermatt.
Day 7: Weather day, or use this day for a final climb or relaxing down day in the village of Zermatt.
Day 8: Guest departure, VIP transfer to Geneva, Milan or Zurich airport
* Pre-course fitness training and acclimatization: The best way to reach proper altitude acclimatization and the required level of physical fitness is to train in advance. Contact us for a recommended pre-trip training regime.