Posted: July 21, 2011
Author: Susanna Magruder
I have recently dubbed this ride the anti-trade show; after 3 days of the German Outdoor show, we needed a thorough cleansing of the mind, body, and soul. The Haut Val de Bagnes (the head of the “Verbier” Valley) is a home to the 2nd largest nature conservation park, and one of the biggest dams in Switzerland. Is that an oxymoron? While it may be a land of contradictions with miles of tunnels and concrete alongside glaciers and wildlife, it is still one of the most beautiful places in the Alps.
The climb to the Cabane Chanrion begins below the lake in Mauvoisin, and after gaining the elevation of the dam, you immediately wonder how you are going to pass through the granite walls steeply guarding the haute Val de Bagnes – well, by tunnel, of course. With the dim light and constant dripping, it is not the normal environment for mountain biking, but has become a reality since moving to the Valais, where they are expert and compulsive tunnelers. A friend of mine who is a geologist tells stories of driving his car into a hydroelectric access tunnel in the Val d’Anniviers and coming out below the Matterhorn, 3 valleys away (first they confirmed that the flows had been shut off!). Actually, climbing in this particular tunnel is quite cool and invigorating, if you can ignore the vibrations of 100,000 liters/sec. of water pumping through the rock right next to you. The contrast of electric green grass, turquoise glacial lake, and snow-capped peaks at the other end is well worth the drips.
At the far end of the lake, cows are grazing beside the River Dranse. There is a small tractor with what I like to call the “mobile milker” attached to the back, ready to haul themilk an hour down-valley twice a day. Do these cows realize the incredible real estate they live on? The small road leaves the lake and climbs higher and higher; the Fenêtre de Durand, and the border with Italy is about an hour’s climb to the south, but we are saving that for another day (it is an epic descent of 2000 m+ down to Valpelline in the Italian Valle d’Aosta, where wood-fired pizzas and cold beers are waiting…tempting).
Today we are headed to the Chanrion, one of the mountain huts along the fabled “haute-route”, built in 1890. The Chanrion is unique in its remote location (especially in the winter, when the roads are not plowed), and its “lower” altitude (2450m). It is the perfect base to stay for a few days and ski the surrounding peaks, the Pigne d’Arolla, Mont Blanc de Cheillon, Tournelon Blanc, La Ruinette. This time of year it has become a destination for mountain bikers, and it’s wonderful to have a beer and a snack on the terrace, and talk with people from all over the world. And then make the descent back to civilization, passing edelweiss and the elusive Ibex. It is one of the last “wild” places in the Alps, even if there is a dirt road to get you there.
Tags: Val De BagnesMtb AlpsTrade Show Hell
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